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Sushi Smackdown

Fighting a serious case of sushi belly* BiteClub lays down the chopsticks and names the winners of 2006 Sumos of Sonoma County Sushi.

But before the drumroll, a quick shout out to all of you who weighed in with your picks. I'll be adding some of your comments into this story soon (a girl can only type so fast). Click here to see the comments from yesterday.

And now, the winners...

Yokozuna (Grand Champion)
Ume Japanese Bistro: The Master
Tucked away in Windsor, Ume is the place that sushi connoisseurs talk about between themselves. The sushi is simple, minimal (not blobbed with wasabi or overly seasoned rice) letting the flavor of the fish express itself and sliced generously without being overdone. Plus-
- Perfectly brewed tea poured as soon as you sit down
- Hands down, the best Monkfish pate
- Fresh, fresh, fresh-and did I mention fresh (**caveat below)
- Artistic presentation
- Great sake list
- Lots of specials and off-menu delicacies that satisfy a serious sushi-lover
- A careful balance between serious Nigiri/sashimi and wacky everything-but-the-kitchen-sink rolls. (Which can be fun in certain situations, but in no way considered true sushi). 8710 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 838.6700

+++++
Ozeki (Serious Sushi)

Yao Kiku: Insiders Choice
The key to Yao Kiku is getting in with the sushi chef. Frankly, I've yet to ingratiate myself properly (I think I ordered a California roll, and blew my chances), but regardless, I've never had a misstep at this Bennett Valley jewel. 2700 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa, 707.578.8180

Hana: Authentic
This one, I'm nominating primarily as a crowd favorite. My two experiences at Hana were less than illuminating (though the foie gras 'sushi' was delightful), but too many people I trust have told me that the chef is nothing short of brilliant. So okay, there you go. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707.586.0270

Sake' O: Triple Threat
The Healdsburg outpost of Gary Chu's empire has incredible sushi, monkfish pate and the Martini prawns that have made Chu a legend in SoCo. I'll mention O'Sake (2446 Patio Court, Santa Rosa, 707.542.8282 ) here as well, but frankly, the sushi doesn't even compare. 505 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707.433/2669

Sushi Tozai: The Sebastopol Sleeper
An insider spot that consistently turns out solid sushi. 7531 Healdsburg Ave, Sebastopol, 707.824.9886

+++++
Seki wake (Pretty darned good)

Hiro: Petaluma power sushi
Watching the sushi chefs breakdown fake crab (the little pressed sticks which should never enter any real sushi restaurant) for 10 minutes while they pretty much ignored me didn't bode well. Which is why Hiro falls short in my list, despite some otherwise good sushi. 107 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707.763.2300

Senju: Wow in Windsor
What makes Senju one of my perennial faves is the incredibly nice staff and, like Ume, the specials off-menu cuts that inspire and intrigue. 8960 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707.836.1699

+++++
Komu Subi (Just plain fun)

Sakura: Anime explosion
It is quite possible that every inch of this restaurant is covering with something cute, pink, fuzzy or adorable. Or blinking. Which makes it one of my favorite spots on a rainy, crummy day. The sushi is good (though not mind-blowing), reasonably priced, and service is fast enough to get you in and out before your visual cortex, uh, explodes. 300 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa; 707.523.1916

Sushi to Dia For: Sauce with that?
A newcomer to SoCo, Sushi to Dia For--isn't. But props for their creative rolls and sense of fun. Frankly, there's a little too much creative saucing and showboating for my taste. But, it's a bustling hot spot that fills the urgent bar crawling sush-cravings in a pinch. 119 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707.576.9309

Boathouse: Sushi Go Round
The main thing I like about Boathouse is the boats, which float to the bar seats with your dinner bobbing along happily. The sushi is pretty average, but hey, having your dinner dock in front of you is sometimes worth the money. 6278 Redwood Dr. Rohnert Park, Rohnert Park, 707.588. 9440

Sushi Hana: Cheap(ish) eatsNo frills sushi. A crowd favorite, yes. Great sushi? Well, it depends how hungry you are. Best bet for gorging yourself senseless on a budget, especially on the 'cheap' days. 6930 Burnett, Sebastopol, 707.823.3778

+++++
And the rest

Jo Jo & Café Japan: DowntownersYou said it. I said it. Too much variance in consistency for these to get our votes. While I've had good experiences at both, I've also had some pretty mediocre ones as well. 645 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707.569.8588

Sapporo: The Fix
I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I actually go here pretty often. There's not much to commend on the sushi. It's fine, but never exceptional. It's simply the closest fix near my work. And sometimes you just need a fix. 518 7th St, Santa Rosa, 707.575/0631

+++++
Take Your Chances

Here are several that are yet untried...
Kabuki: Another crowd faveLots of you love this place. Worth a try? Let me know. 17 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707.773.3232

Shiso: Sonoma star?
Newest entry in the town of Sonoma. 522 Broadway, Sonoma, 707.933.9331

U&I: Cheap eats
Frankly, I've been a little scared of this place, located in a strip mall in the Sonoma State area, but again, it gets several nods from those of you who love sushi on the cheap. 99 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707.794.0410

Shogun: 2350 Midway Drive, Santa Rosa, 707.575.5557
Nagomi: 8235 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 707.795.9753
Kyoto: No. 5, Padre Town Center, Rohnert Park, 707.584.4204

+++++
*Sushi Belly (def.): The state of uncomfortable fullness after eating $80 worth of sushi. Brought about by rice expansion. Usually goes away within 2-3 hours, allowing sushi eaters to gorge again.

**Okay, I just got taken to task for my comment about "fresh". Here's the deal on that. Almost all sushi in the US (with a few exceptions, tuna being one of them) must be frozen at some point to kill parasites. In reality, a majority of fish served in sushi restaurants, has at some point been frozen for varying lengths of time. It's a matter of economics and seasonality. I don't have a huge problem with that, as long as the fish has been properly handled, is of exceptional quality to begin with, and...well duh, actually tastes "fresh"...as in not freezer burned or particularly fishy. So, okay, point taken. It's not exactly "fresh" . But next time, don't refer to me as Cox. I've never even met the guy.

Got something to say? Email me biteclub@pressdemo.com

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Comments | Add Comment

Posted By: Susie (05/06/2009 2:52:03 PM)
Comment: I'm sorry, but if you honestly believe that Sushi Hana is better than Sushi Tozai, you need a slap in the face. Sushi Hana is probably probably tied with Sakura for my bottom three. Also in the bottom three is Sunnyside Tokyo and Tex Wasabi. TERRIBLE. Sushi Hana is also horrible. Hana Japanese Restaurant in RP is the best in Sonoma County. The end.

Posted By: michelle (15/03/2009 2:23:02 PM)
Comment: if you not good shishi you know shishi hana in sebastopol is NOT it! for some reason sebastopol is very loal to this resturant and i cant figure out why. normaly the town of sebastopol boots any resturant that falls shot of perfect right away. but not in this case. i would have to say that shushi hana is one of the worst sushi joints in west county

Posted By: Anna (16/12/2007 7:36:42 PM)
Comment: Everyone on here is crazy, the best sushi HANDS DOWN is Shiso in Sonoma. I'm addicted. Everything on the menu is absolutely fabulous. This place will fit anyone's taste. Not only do they have awesome sushi, but their kitchen items are delicious too. I was in the other night and I had delicious fried scallops that were on the special sheet, and then a roll with all kinds of yummy vegetables and then kobe beef on top, I think it was called the money roll. Seriously, everytime I've gone to Shiso I've left completely satisfied. Definately the best sushi around!!

Posted By: Sushi in Calistoga? (14/06/2007 10:27:31 PM)
Comment: Has BiteClub ever reviewed that little sushi place in Calistoga at the end of town where the coffee shop used to be? I recently moved back here so I'm not sure how long it's been there. The locals I've asked about it give mixed reviews but most people admit they've never tried it. BTW, I liked this article. It's interesting to see the wide variety of peoples' opinions on SoCo sushi.

Posted By: Sarah (15/12/2006 10:23:36 AM)
Comment: I just want to say that I worked at Sushi Hana for about 10 years and I think they have great sushi better than sushi Tozai ( I got sick there once). They do not treat there employees like crap and Juan is a great sushi chef that has been there for maybe 12+ years and has worked hard. I know Masa and John seem a little gruff but they have good hearts. It has been many years since I have worked there and it is still my favorite sushi place.

Posted By: Rob (15/12/2006 9:08:48 AM)
Comment: In defense of Sushi to Dai for, what's wrong with a little showboating and fun? Sitting at the sushi bar there and bantering with the warm and friendly staff fellow sushi lovers is the most fun you can have without taking your clothes off. Most sushi establishments in this county have a staff that look and act like they just got out of military school. Lighten up a bit and try Sushi to Dai For. You won't be dissapointed.

Posted By: Austin (14/12/2006 1:39:12 PM)
Comment: I think Boathouse should be higher up on the list, that place is awsome! Where is O'Sake??? I go to that place like every Friday!!

Posted By: Vince (14/12/2006 12:58:53 PM)
Comment: Just a correction: It's Sushi To Dai For, not Sushi To Die For. And they get my vote for number one, although I haven't tried a few of the places on your winners list.

Posted By: come on chris.... (14/12/2006 9:30:16 AM)
Comment: Heather did a great job knowing that Tozai was better than Sushi Hana . Come on chris Sushi Hana better than Tozai..you must be smokin some hippie crack. 1.The owners of sushi hana treat there employees like shit.2.You ever glanced in there kitchen, hasn't been cleaned in years.3.Other than Masa the sushi chefs are mexican I personally like to see East Asians rolling my sushi. And last but not least Sushi Tozai rolls are twice the size.

Posted By: Chris (13/12/2006 5:04:51 PM)
Comment: I am surprised that you rated Sushi Tozai so high as opposed to Sushi Hana in Sebastopol. I have eaten at both over the years and Tozai in no way compares to Sushi Hana. The textures are always a little off at Tozai and the service is not a personable regardless of it's size. My personal favorites are Sakura and Sushi Hana. no contest, however I will try Ume as you recommended it and I have never tried it.

Posted By: HeatherBiteClub (13/12/2006 2:02:11 PM)
Comment: Hey "First Time" I'd love to get the inside scoop from someone who's worked in SoCo sushi restaurants for 10 years. Email me directly and we'll talk. Sounds like you have some strong opinions.

Posted By: spring (13/12/2006 1:17:42 PM)
Comment: I half to say, I'm a bit amazed that Cafe Japan didn't get a nod. Everytime I've eaten there it has been amazing. The closest to real japanese style sushi I've found in California. The flavors are all fresh. It tastes like eating in someone's house rather than "canned flavors" of msg unagi and that horrible creamy sauce on iceberg lettuce, that tastes like it was bought at costco in bulk.

Posted By: reply:tutor (13/12/2006 1:15:45 PM)
Comment: No it is not my first time eating sushi, actually I've worked in sushi restraunts for ten years now. No restraunt in Sonoma county has spent anywhere near 10s of thousands of dollars for freezers strictly to hold fish, maybe freezers for everything in the restraunt. So get it straight yet again. The spelling is me typing quickly to denounce your freezers strictly for fish. 99.9 percent of fish in a sushi restraunt is kept in the same freezer that everything else is stored. Also know restraunt in sonoma county has bought a freezer to store fish in overnight that was made in Japan (made in U.S.A) get it straight yet again.

Posted By: tutor (13/12/2006 12:07:43 PM)
Comment: Hey "Is this your first time eating sushi"!! Do you not understand sushi? Do you not understand that some of the best sushi places in the world invest 10s of thousands of dollars in Japanese freezers. More time in grammar class would be good for you too.

Posted By: John K. Wood (13/12/2006 11:56:23 AM)
Comment: Wow! I couldn't have had a more different experience at these places. First off they are all inconsistent. It is possible to catch any of the restaurants on a bad day. Ume is very good and relatively consistent. Catch Cafe Japan and Hana on a good day and you are in for a real treat. I have had many an orgasmic experience at both of these places. Hana is for the purest, the sashimi is just cut the right way and served in the right portions to make your mouth tingle when feeling the hamachi melt in your mouth. Umm Yumm! Hana pretty consistently serves toro of high quality. Cafe Japan's traditional sushi is very light and tasteful, it's sushi served in a very delicate style. Connoisseurs will appreciate the subtle flavors, this is what true Japanese sushi is about. Let's just say Café Japan is the polar opposite of Tex Wasabi's.

Posted By: is this your first time eating sushi (13/12/2006 11:44:30 AM)
Comment: come on you delete my comment isn't this a free country to say what we want about your so called article maybe you and Jeff Cox should do your research about a restraunt before you lable it. I read all the comments and almost no one thought Umi was great sounds like you should have titled the article "If you like frozen Fish and not fresh got to Umi". Next time go to all the restraunts and talk to people and find out the skinny before you write your article. Come on your a journalist right.

Posted By: lesrok (13/12/2006 11:03:53 AM)
Comment: If you ever find yourself in the San Jose area, and have a hankering for some out-of-this-world sushi, there is a little hole-in-the-wall in Campbell named TGI Sushi that simply can't be beat. The fish is NEVER frozen and the prices are extremely reasonable. Beware of the waitress with bangs; she has a bad attitude!

Posted By: Megan (13/12/2006 10:21:05 AM)
Comment: No mention of Cafe Japan?! Cafe Japan is the most fabulous restaurant in Santa Rosa. In fact, I've dined their many, many times! Lots of organic items, and Yo and Jen are simply the kindest restaurant owners I have ever met. This restaurant caters to all diets, meat eaters, vegetarians, and vegans. Everyone will find something they absolutely fall in love with on their menu. And did I mention organic draft beer? And organic sake? It's too die for.

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