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Starlight Cafe & Wine Bar


There's an undeniable charm to eating in a railway car. Chummy quarters, dim lighting and feeling transported to a slower, more romantic time when travel didn't include pat-downs and families in sweat pants.

Captivated by romantic visions of the past (if not the long-term practicality of having a an entire restaurant, bar and kitchen in a space not much larger than a tour bus) SoCal transplants Ted and Heather Van Doorn have been fronting Sebastopol's funky Starlight Cafe & Wine Bar for the better part of three years. The cafe is a former Southern Pacific lounge car parked permanently in Gravenstein Station. And though he was never intended to be their permanent chef, New Orleans' Thaddeus Palmese has taken over the helm (literally), transforming it into a functional kitchen.

The restaurant has flown mostly under the radar despite an enthusiastic local fan-base. With hard times hitting many eateries around the North Bay, It didn't escape BiteClub's attention that the trio have recently been plugging the space, garnering a Best Of nod from the Bohemian and KSRO radio time. Honestly, you can't help but want to cheer for this hard-working, hipster crew who've had their share of uphill battles since opening.

Now settled in, there's a lot to like about the haute homey-ness of Palmese's food, a clever but compact wine list, the Van Doorn's constant presence and unforced cross-table discussion with pretty much anyone within fork-shot. Meaning that chances are good you might get a bite or a sip of your neighbor's homemade pot pie, penne macaroni or BBQ shrimp if you play your cards right.

Much of the menu nods to Palmese's New Orleans culinary roots, making it one of only a handful of southern-influenced restaurants in the region. (They keep disappearing.) Starlight also prides itself on adopting the Slow Food mantra, using local produce and meats when possible. Daily specials don't disappoint -- a luscious cut of pork belly on creamy (creamy!) polenta with peach jus and grilled fennel or seared scallops atop a bed of corn and bacon relish, topped with a nest of fried sweet potatoes. Presentation is spot-on and impressive for the small kitchen.



There are also misfires. The restaurant doesn't have a liquor license, so cocktails (though tasty) are made with Soju (rice wine) rather than hard alcohol. The 40's swing vibe just cries out for martinis and Manhattans. On a recent visit, Chef Thad veered into croc-infested waters when deconstructing a Caprese salad. The texture and flavor of olive oil ice cream -- though a noble idea -- just didn't work, especially when sitting atop a tasteless tomato (no excuses this time of year). I truly wanted this dish to be summer on a plate, which it just couldn't be with the inclusion of sharp Parmesan and pine nut flavors and crumbly ice cream. It's a dish that could work beautifully with a few changes.

The price tag at Starlight can also get steep rather quickly, with the majority of dishes in the $15-20 range. Wine flights -- a fun way to taste a variety of wines with dinner -- range from $16 to $18 with three generous 3oz pours. Cocktails and desserts run about $7. Expect to hit triple digits if you indulge. To keep things reasonable for the less-indulgent among us, Starlight offers a three-course $25 prix fixe early-bird menu until 7pm on weekends. There's also brunch on Sunday.

Dessert redeems dinner's hiccups and sometimes painfully slow service: Banana's foster, a banana creme brulee or a bourbon-soaked brownie slathered with caramel and a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream (much better than the olive oil). Again, here's where making friends with nearby tablemates comes in handy, seeing what looks best and getting an honest thumbs-up or down before sharing a rousing round of multi-table singing wineglasses.

You'll be hard-pressed to leave Starlight's platform without at least a few goodbyes and well-wishes from your new pals. And the bon-temps go on until late on the weekends and raised tables and a four-person bar make for comfortable eating (or just sipping) if you're on your own. All aboard.

Starlight Cafe & Wine Bar, open Tuesday through Thursday noon to 10pm; Friday noon to 11pm, Saturday 5:30pm to 11pm, Sunday brunch 10am to 2pm. Closed Monday. 6761 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707.823.1943. Check out the website for upcoming winemaker dinners and other events at www.starlightwinebar.com.

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Posted September 22, 2008 11:51:05 AM
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Comments | Add Comment

Posted By: Heather and Ted Van Doorn (28/09/2008 2:11:01 PM)
Comment: Thank you to all of wonderful supporters and to Heather for writing such a nice write up on us! As owners of a restaurant, if we read reviews on our place then we have to read all of it. Take the good with the bad. Your point of sometimes "painfully slow service" stung, but was not shrugged off. We have taken steps to keep track of ticket times and act accordingly. Some of the time in the kitchen just cannot be helped. We are at the mercy of working in an incredibly small kitchen, it is, in fact, a train car. I am certainly not trying to justify slow service, but there are limitations to what we can do. We think most of our diners forgive us. It's one of the trades offs to having a unique and delicious meal in a 1949 Pullman lounge car. Quality control is another step we have taken to make sure everything that comes out of the kitchen is something that we personally would consume and happily pay for. The chef designs the dish, and the cooks replicate it. Sometimes that has to be double checked to make sure it is true to his original vision. Thanks for the reminder. We look forward to seeing all of our customers, both first timers and tried and true regulars! Sincerely, Heather and Ted Van Doorn owners- Starlight PS. Our Early Bird is indeed Tues-Sat. 5:30-7PM

Posted By: Kali (26/09/2008 2:50:28 PM)
Comment: First, thank you for FINALLY putting one of Sonoma County's most endearing, charismatic, and satisfying dining establishments in your sights. I LOVE THE STARLIGHT!! It's definitely one of my favorite places...it is a real life "Cheers" where they know your name, your drink, and your order if your that kind of regular. But PLEASE, editors and reviewers take note...if you're going to critique a place, at the very least, get its NAME right!! It's not a "cafe," it's the "Starlight Wine Bar and Restaurant." And their Early Bird specials are throughout the week...not the weekends. And make a short visit to Wikipedia or read the back of the bottle to learn that Soju is NOT "rice wine" but rather a distilled beverage made from potato, wheat, barley, sweet potato, as well as rice. Honestly, if you can't even get the name or the basic facts right, how do you expect anyone to take your criticisms seriously. I've never had any problem with food or service. Perhaps you found your service "sometimes painfully slow" because you mistook an establishment that obviously is rooted in the art of savoring classy ambiance, delectable food, fabulous local wines, and engaged social interaction for a fast-food cafe. In fact, if you're in a hurry, stop at Micky D's. If your want cheap quantity, try Appleby's. But if you want a one of a kind, uniquely charming yet relaxed place where you can just get a glass of wine, impress a first date, or join the gear-head conversation among the regular European bike enthusiasts....spend three digits or get a hearty dish of gumbo, mac & cheese, or a classic margarita pizza (all for under $15), then make the STARLIGHT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT one of your favorite places too!! It truly is a gem.

Posted By: Joshua Hyde (23/09/2008 9:06:21 PM)
Comment: I have been a resident in sebastopol for 20 years and have never felt so welcome in a resturuant. The ambiance, the food, wine list, and the beer have never dissapointed. At times I'll have Thadeous prepare what ever he is feeling(for me). Very intuitive chef he is with much fortuitiveness. All in all the starlight is my favorite place to dine and often recomend to anyone looking for quality in their dining expierience. Great people, great place, great food, check it out!!!!

Posted By: Jeff (23/09/2008 1:29:42 PM)
Comment: Would some one please mention thier kickass wine selection? Oh ya. I just did.

Posted By: Spin (23/09/2008 12:49:57 PM)
Comment: I found the atmosphere and ambiance romantic, but the food overrated for the portion and price. Definitely don't go if you are in a hurry. Nice to do once for the experience.

Posted By: sandy chronic (22/09/2008 6:45:54 PM)
Comment: I LOVE this place! the chicken pot pie is amazing, and the jambalaya may be my new favorite thing on the menu. We've managed to get out of there with a very reasonable check by ordering just those two dishes and a few beers. (pot pie and jambalaya are both under $15, I'm pretty sure) Their pizza is good too. The staff is always super nice and welcoming. Thanks for writing this gem up, heather.

Posted By: Always-loved-trains (22/09/2008 6:39:30 PM)
Comment: Dined there several times. The service is indeed "painfully slow". Liked the ambiance,but for those with allergies watch out for chopped red pepper hidden in otherwise nicely nuanced foods. More 'cajun' than southern.

Posted By: Sonoma Diner (22/09/2008 4:49:06 PM)
Comment: I had a wedding dinner here and cannot say enough about the experience. They had a fantastic staff, better food and wonderful atmosphere. This is a true gem that is finally getting recognized!!

Posted By: Treehugger (22/09/2008 3:52:21 PM)
Comment: "Starlight offers a three-course $25 prix fixe early-bird menu until 7pm on weekends" I believe it is on week nights not weekends. Starlight staff, please confirm....

Posted By: Danielle (22/09/2008 3:12:05 PM)
Comment: A FANTASTIC restaurant. A hidden jewel in Sebastopol, but not for long. Do yourself a favor and try this place out. You won't be sorry.

Wine Country dining. Drive-through sensibility. Heather Irwin’s dish on the region’s best food bets—short, sweet and just what you need to know.
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