
It used to be that you could pretty much throw a slab of raw fish at me and I'd clap my hands in joy -- kind of like a sea lion. Coming from the Midwest, where seafood tended to lean more toward catfish and farmed salmon, the novelty of sushi was more exciting than the actual flavor.
I'm over it. Truth is that like taquerias, there are far too many Japanese-style eateries churning out mediocre imitations of the real deal in hopes that we won't notice. I recently visited a local sushi spot that served me a still-frozen slice of tuna and had the gall to charge $5 for that nasty surprise. I've been served rancid mackerel and octopus so tough I nearly broke a tooth. I refuse to wade through a swarm of flies at the door of a certain sushi spot for warm crab salad rolls. I recently tried some really outlandish sushi rolls at a Korean BBQ joint. Bad plan.
Thing is, unlike a bad $3 taco, you can't help but feel like a sucker when dropping $30 or more for gnarly sushi. I'm willing to pay the price for a sure thing at places like Ume, Go Fish and Hana where I've had slices of fish so buttery and rich that they brought tears to my eyes. I'm not willing to pay it when I leave a restaurant feeling like I've got a 50/50 chance at serious intestinal distress.
Call it the Americanization of Sushi. Raw fish has gone from exotic ethnic food to mainstream fare -- popping up everywhere from gas stations (seriously), supermarkets and convenience stores to the haute-est of old school restaurants. Yay for accessiblity. Yikes for execution.
The art of making sushi -- which refers to the vinegared rice, rather than the fish itself -- is just that. An art. True sushi chefs train often train for years, even a lifetime to master the perfect rice, form the perfect Nigiri, learn the exacting cuts of fish. Devotees return to the restaurant again and again, learning from the master and putting themselves in his hands (called omakase or "it's up to you").
I won't pretend to know much more about the mastery of sushi outside of what I've learned over 15 years of loving sushi and a friendly Wikipedia assist, but I can say that the increasing preponderance of American-style sushi rolls (mango! wasabi mayonnaise! lots of fried stuff inside!) sends me (and most true sushi chefs) into convulsions. California rolls are one thing. Stuffing a piece of nori with as much sweet, creamy, fried stuff as it will hold and then squirting sauce all over it is quite another.
I love fried goodness as much as the next guy, but it seems to me that the point of sushi is to actually taste the freshness of the fish. One has to wonder what exactly is getting covered up in all the goopy gloppy stuff. Every time I get talked into one of these $14 rolls I end up with a mouthful of mayonnaise and a stomach full of regret. Maybe I'm just being grouchy. It wouldn't be the first time. But sheesh, they're everywhere!
All of this has everything and nothing at all to do with Sebastopol's newest entrant into the Japanese restaurant game, Tosaki Sushi. I will say right off that I had an absolutely fine bento box experience there -- nicely done tempura, miso, rice and four small pieces of sashimi. I enjoyed a softshell crab. The restaurant is very clean. The service is a bit slow but very friendly.The overall experience was quite decent. Thing is, I simply couldn't bring myself to enjoy what seems to be a core focus of the restaurant -- creative rolls. Especially when the sushi station was empty most of my visit.
Regardless, here's the lowdown on Tosaki: There are nearly 30 rolls to choose from varying from straightforward to outlandish, all with photos of extravagantly done plating. Very pretty stuff. Heaven if you love wacky rolls. The California Sun Roll has fried crab meat, avocado, unagi and passion sauce (?); The Spicy Girl Roll ($12.95) includes spicy tuna and crab topped with seared tuna. There's the usual Rainbow roll, Dragon roll and Caterpillar roll. You can get really crazy and go for the curious Sagano roll ("Special" fish topped with hamachi and banana fried prawns, $14.95) or the Mojo roll with shrimp tempura, cucumber, salmon and mango ($14.95).
The list goes on an on. The large lunch and dinner menu also includes more traditional sashimi and nigiri as well as "Japanese hand balls" or temarizushi which are hand-formed balls of fish and rice. Chirashi fans can get their sashimi over rice and there's plenty of udon, teriyaki, yakitori and tempura as well. Plenty to love even if you're not a roll fan.
But for me, the glitz and glare of super-Americanized rolls just outshines the beauty and simplicity of well-executed Japanese-style fare. I mean what's next? Sushi rolls with French fries? Heh.
What's your take? Do you love outlandish sushi rolls or hate 'em? Is Tosaki the next sushi sensation? Am I way off base? Tell me.
Also, checkout my 2006 Sushi Smackdown. I think the winners still hold true.
Tosaki Sushi, 799 Gravenstein Hwy, Sebastopol, 707.829.0892
Comments | Add Comment
Posted By: Susie (05/06/2009 2:37:50 PM)
Comment: Hana in Rohnert Park is by far the best sushi restaurant in Sonoma County. HANDS DOWN. And I agree with the person from LA! I am from LA as well. NO ONE up here knows what GOOD sushi is... until I show them, that is. I am willing to try Tosaki, but I'm sure I will just be returning to Hana.
Posted By: Dragon Rocker (24/09/2008 1:49:47 PM)
Comment: Had lunch there with 3 other people to check it out, and each of our lunches were brought out one meal at a time 10 to 15 minutes apart, I took mine home because everyone else was done eating by the time my meal came. To slow and to pricey for what you get. Hope the new owners read up.
Posted By: Jay (18/09/2008 8:49:04 AM)
Comment: Candace, we ate there last night, wife had the Oyoshi roll, said she loved it $13.95.
I had the Tempura and Chicken teriyaki, I did not like it, very odd tasting chicken,and tasteless tempura sauce,not worth the $19.95. Gyoza appetizer had 4 small pieces that were barely filled $6.95 (not worth it by a long shot) if they don't lower the prices a bit, they won't be open long, as there are two other choices in Sebastopol that are well established and give you your monies worth. Restaurant was clean and service friendly, only had 2 other people in the place the whole time we were there.
Posted By: Candace (18/09/2008 8:20:07 AM)
Comment: Has anyone been to the restaurant that is (kind of) being reviewed?I would like to hear a second opinion.
Posted By: indo (13/09/2008 7:30:44 AM)
Comment: i really hate reading comments from idiots trying to make people think they are the first and last word on where and what people should eat.just shut up and try the food like a good friend of mine says if it looks good eat it
Posted By: matt (13/09/2008 12:00:10 AM)
Comment: I've tried most, if not all, of the sushi places in the greater Santa Rosa area. Hana, in Rohnert Park, is by far the best of them. Try their seasonal varieties of fish, or better yet they "omakase". Simply amazing....
Posted By: real sushi (12/09/2008 5:25:27 PM)
Comment: Hey, do not talk about little league. Let's talk about MLB.
You should go to Tsukiji in Tokyo if you want to eat real sushi.
Find Japanese own sushi restaurant if you have to play locally. Not Chinese, not Korean......
Posted By: Leanne (12/09/2008 12:36:45 PM)
Comment: For amazing sushi you defintely have to go to Gohan in Petaluma. They have fresh fish and a wonderful atmosphere. The Tam family is making Steve proud!
Posted By: disgusted (12/09/2008 10:23:07 AM)
Comment: Ta Ke is absolutely the worst sushi experience I have ever had. My wife and I could not eat the fishy pieces of rubber. We asked for the check immediately and did not eat the food after a couple of bites. I can't believe they are still in business. Yoshi's in Oakland is always awesome. While not spectacular, Sakura in Coddingtown is remarkably consistently good. Senju is alright. The Boathouse in RP is decent. I will have to try Hana, but DONT go to Ta Ke if you want to have an edible dinner.
Posted By: foodie loverq (12/09/2008 9:49:38 AM)
Comment: lol Noah Are you taling about a certain food network guido?????
Posted By: Dazed&Confused (11/09/2008 5:58:37 PM)
Comment: I a bit confused by the article. Are you reviewing a Japanese restaurant or a Sushi Restaurant. Just as there is are differences between a good French bakery versus French restaurant. You probably won't order caviar at the bakery. so, why are you ordering a bento box at a real sushi place? Old school sushi folks tend not to be in to rolls; because, they tend to have too much sauce which destroy the taste of the fresh fish. That is not meant to say rolls are not good sushi. They are just different.
Traditional sushi best is Ta Ke in RP
Ume is also very good
Gringo Sushi Osake in SR
As the Sushi Nazi in L.A. (Sushi Nozawa)saids when someone orders a Cal roll- "no sushi for you"
Posted By: Dennis (11/09/2008 3:24:24 PM)
Comment: I think traditional and "Americanized" rolls have very different reasons for existence. As much of an elitist as I want to think I am, I like both. I agree that there is palce for both-if you want really crazy combos go for it. If you want simple and traditional go for it. It kinda like me liking both Cyrus and In-n-Out Burger.
Posted By: eat_gator (11/09/2008 9:50:44 AM)
Comment: Lets talk Japan . . . 95% of all American Japanese restaurants are nothing like what you see in Japan from sushi places to Benihana's or teppanyaki. In American sushi restaurants, the roll reins supreme, in Japan they are hard to fine. Not to say they don't have rolls, but they looking nothing like what you would fine there. Even how you dine at these places is completely different. In Japan dinner is more like it is in Europe. Long dinners with many and in Japan I mean MANY courses with very small portions. (I tell the steak story to yall another time) Some of the dinners I had in Osaka had 20 courses over 3 hours. . . . Now lets talk Mayonnaise and Osaka, they LOVE IT. The street food in Osaka are these little squid balls, the way they are cooked is another story, that are covered in mayo and a very sweet brown sauce, sorry that all I can give you on that sauce. Now I will say this there mayo is better then our store bought stuff, but still not as good as the French. French food in Japan is yet another great story. . . When I Toured a Japanese delegation of chefs and restaurateurs through NYC they loved the Americanization of there Cuisine but they where very fast to point out how it wasn't Japanese AT ALL. . . . Red beans and ricely yours, eat_gator
Posted By: Michelle (11/09/2008 8:44:13 AM)
Comment: Try Sake O' in Healdsburg.. truly the best.
Posted By: Noah (10/09/2008 6:41:49 PM)
Comment: Anyone that puts French Fries in a sushi roll should be shot. They should be taken out back, made to strip off their bracelets and man-rings, and shot. Shot right between the eyes beneath their frosted tips.
Posted By: Michelle (10/09/2008 4:43:39 PM)
Comment: I second the recommendation from Sushi Fan. Osake in SR is very good. In my opinion, it is best to judge sushi restaurants by their exectution of the "simplest" menu items. How does the unagi taste? When you order a pair of hamachi nigiri, are they tender and delicious? Just like other restaurants, how you execute the standbys reflects on the overall quality of your establishment.
Posted By: Sushi Lover (10/09/2008 4:29:55 PM)
Comment: I have to agree that Hana in RP has horrible service and not so great Sushi. The places that I love to go are Ume (Windsor) and hands down the best place to get great sushi and service is Hiro's in Petaluma.
Posted By: Danielle (10/09/2008 3:29:24 PM)
Comment: When you mentioned, "I mean what's next? Sushi rolls with French fries?", I had to start laughing. I had the misfortune of being adventurous and trying the "Gringo Sushi" at Tex Wasabi's in Santa Rosa. One had a mixture of tapioca rice paper roll with sushi rice, BBQ beef brisket, french fries, crispy onions & a garlic chili mayo sauce. Never again. I'll stick with my sushi from Ume, thank you very much.
Posted By: Sushi Rules (10/09/2008 3:09:04 PM)
Comment: Best places are Hana (RP), Ume (Windsor, Osake (SR) and Senju (Windsor)
Posted By: jgoody (10/09/2008 3:06:51 PM)
Comment: Hey, I'm American and I don't mind the Americanized sushi. At one point in time, this was called "fusion" cooking and I enjoy experiencing new and creative combinations. I'll still get down with fresh Uni and Saba when available, but when does authentic have to equal quality? And for that matter, good?
Posted By: Tracey (10/09/2008 2:14:48 PM)
Comment: Shogun makes the best rolls in my opinion because they are not "Americanized" or drowning in mayo! The lava roll, hot and spicy, Ocean roll has the best the ocean has to offer and the Mermaid roll, 3 kinds of tobiko, need I say more? Oh and the best POKI I've ever had.
Posted By: Denise (10/09/2008 1:42:32 PM)
Comment: Heather: Please come to CC Blue in Saint Helena....wonderful Sushi!Lovely Room and excellent stafff.
Posted By: Cyndi (10/09/2008 12:29:26 PM)
Comment: Gohan has the best sushi in the North Bay, hands down. The fish is always top notch, the presentation nice and a laid back atmosphere. Glad to hear Steve's family is keeping things going in his memory!
Posted By: Sushi Fan (10/09/2008 12:21:30 PM)
Comment: I have tried over 10 different sushi spots within Petaluma, RP and Santa Rosa. I will never go back to Hana because the service is TERRIBLE!! The fish is definitely good quality, but I just don't care - every time I've gone to Hana I've either been ignored or waited 45 minutes for hamachi nigiri. My advice, stick to the spots with good fish AND good service: Osake in SR, Kabuki in Pet., and take a chance on Ta Ke in RP.
Posted By: Mike (10/09/2008 12:16:33 PM)
Comment: Try Gohan in Petaluma. There's a few rolls on the menu for "americanized" sushi eaters but most are pretty standard. Order your CA roll with crab if you want. They'll do it without any hesitation.
I only eat the raw fish along with spicy tuna rolls and the occasional negihama roll and have had nothing but great experiences.
The music and the staff are great as well.
Posted By: Elcee (10/09/2008 12:07:40 PM)
Comment: I agree in part with what you say. Sushi has to be about the quality of the fish. And won't go to many local places because it is just not that fresh although we've heard raves from others about some of these places. I've also had overcooked mushy rice that has kept me from going back to a restaurant. Yuck!
I do not have the problem with some of the unique offbeat sushi if it doesn't mask the taste of the fish. Hiro's was wonderful in its first couple of years. The Marilyn Monrolls were worth the price of admission. (Alas, the service got so bad two years back we stopped going!) Hana in RP is still about the best. But I also give very high marks to Toyo in Santa Rosa. The fish ALWAYS is as fresh as can be. I think Heather may have had a mixed experience when they first opened. You should give it another try.
Response: Heh. Toyo got nailed by what they did with their menu, but my experience there with the fish was rock solid.
Posted By: Lydia (10/09/2008 11:50:59 AM)
Comment: I love raw fish when it is fresh and buttery. I'm from LA so I know what the best tastes like. Hard to find up here. Can't stand the Americanized rolls.
Posted By: Helen (10/09/2008 11:49:00 AM)
Comment: Heather......I think you let your feelings get in the way, this time in this review. Haven't eaten there.
But reading the review.....you spent most of the time telling us about yout thoughts about a trend in sushi restaurants and about the restaurant only as an add-on at the end. Ok, your blog your rules.....but really not fair to the business (aside from their poor opinion to go "creative" instead of "classic"). Guess I gotta wait for Jeff Cox now to know about the food here?
Response: You're right about my own feelings getting in the way. This was a hard piece to write, mostly because I've had so many recently disappointing experiences locally. I've felt like maybe it was just me for quite a while, but I also felt that it needed to be pointed out that a lot of "sushi" joints are really going the way of Americanized rolls that have little to do with what I'm looking for in the way of great sushi. My own feelings aside, I hope that others will report more objectively on their experiences here and elsewhere. Thanks for the input.
Posted By: Sushi (10/09/2008 11:14:51 AM)
Comment: Hana in RP is the best!
Posted By: Gail (10/09/2008 10:22:16 AM)
Comment: I agree with you about too much fanciness around a beautiful, simplistic sushi roll. It's hard to find Calif. rolls with plain crab instead of crab mixture. Please investigate a GOOD Japanese restr. Thanks
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